A few years ago I was traveling home from Montana to
Illinois when I decided to detour three hundred miles to Kathleen Norris’s town
of Lemmon, North Dakota. I didn’t
tell her I was coming. I just
stopped in. Not that I saw her,
and I doubt that she even knew I was there.
Norris is the author of such books as Dakota, Cloister Walk, and Amazing Grace, and
moved to North Dakota after living in the bright, shining din of New York City.
I wanted to see where she writes of isolation and spirituality in a place she
describes as “the high plains desert, full of sage and tumbleweed and hardy
shortgrass.”
Half an hour from her town, I drove into a thunderstorm and
the world went dramatic -- dark and moody with hard driving rain. As I came around a bend in the road, a
slant of sunlight burst through the clouds and lit up a patch of the
prairie. I pulled over to the side
of the road to watch. The hillside
sloped down to a low ridge of brown rock that cradled a small marsh with
cattails and sedge. The rays of the
sun shimmered on the wet, green prairie grass as blue sky returned in the
west. A strong wind pushed the
black storm clouds east and made it hard for birds to fly anywhere. The rough, unforgiving land was
stunning.
By the time I arrived at her town, the sky had cleared and
warm sunlight was drying the earth.
The town is what I imagined it would be from her writing, a place trying
to survive with the boom years behind it – abandoned stores, buildings in need
of paint, and a petrified wood park.
I felt nostalgic surveying an aging town that had been physically pared
back, but there were enduring signs of life. A town is its people and if those who remain still gather to
sing and dance, then their community is strong.
At the small café downtown, I ordered coffee, a slice of
cherry pie, and watched the customers around me, thinking, these are Kathleen’s
people. They know her, and they
knew generations of her kin.
Undoubtedly she has settled into a place among them as the Norris who
writes books, is famous in the big cites, and flies off to give speeches. They probably talk farm details with
her, as well as matters of small town life that are coming up for debate at the
next town meeting. They see her in
the grocery store and in church on Sunday. Perhaps some of them talk to her about spirituality and
mysticism, although most probably don’t.
Spirituality here is understood in one’s bones more than it is spoken,
if it’s anything like the small town in Wisconsin where I grew up.
I was tempted to tack a note on the restaurant’s community
bulletin board that would catch her eye one day, to let her know that her
writings challenge me to be Protestant and spiritual, to value silence for the
wisdom it brings, and to pay attention to my spiritual geography, the interplay
between the landscape where I live and my spirit.
But this is where she lives. It’s her space to wander around in meditations that are as
open as the land, following the rhythm of her thoughts and inklings to wherever
they lead, and writing about the connections that will inspire people who live
far away. This is where she
writes, where she can be just another person in town. If she thought that strangers were here to see her, she
might not be able to focus on her work.
I wouldn’t. I live in a
large city and I like to go to coffeehouses and walk on the street knowing that
people don’t know who I am. I can work out the structure of a piece without
worrying about being interrupted.
For Norris, the western Plains were her deserts of Egypt and
Cappadocia where fourth-century monks set up shop and connected to the
spirituality of the landscape:
“bountiful in their emptiness, offering solitude and room to grow.” It was here, in this land of rough
beauty and constant wind, that she found her voice as a writer. From her I learned to pay attention
when nothing seems to be going on, for then I begin to travel the wilderness
within me.
(originally published by antler journal)
(originally published by antler journal)
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