Sunday, January 31, 2016

Yosemite in Winter








from Mountains of Light

Rising from my sleeping bag, I crawl out of the tent to take a dawn hike around the frosted meadows for an hour or so. The sun peeks over Glacier Point and lights up the bare granite rock of North Dome and the meadow below with a warm yellow glow.

In Cook’s Meadow, acorn woodpeckers hop up the trunks of dead trees, picking out acorns they stored there in the fall. By Sentinel Bridge, three young bucks are hanging out looking for trouble; their snorts come out in white puffs. 

The quiet, crystalline beauty of a winter dawn in the mountains fills my heart with joy because I am surrounded by a landscape that takes my breath away, no matter which way I look.

It’s probably in the mid-30s on the valley floor, at 4000 feet in elevation. On the trails that go along the rim of the valley, at 8000 feet, it’s likely to be ten degrees colder.

A crow in a nearby tree makes a gurgle noise. It's a funny sound, and each time the crow caws, its tail goes down. By Swinging Bridge, a square chunk of light gray granite that was washed downstream by the surge of the spring flood, now sits on the edge of a reflecting pool of emerald green.

Ice edges the meandering Merced River in white lace. Its tranquil water reflects the blue of the early morning sky. An ouzel flies up and dances in the rapids flowing over a two-foot-stretch of pebbles. 

Taking a physical inventory, I find that my only warm place is in the small of my back. It’s seriously cold because the moist air near the river is penetrating my coat. I adjust my clothing and try to get warm but without success, and head to the cafeteria for a hot breakfast. Then it's back outside to see more of the valley in this early light. Later I duck into Degnan's for hot coffee. At noon I heat up soup over my campfire.

When the sun reaches Camp 4 at noon, it’s warm enough to take off one layer of clothing. After hours of shivering, my body finally relaxes.


I head off on a longer hike to see what other surprises are waiting.

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